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You need to be real careful you don’t get hooked on this 3D modelling lark. You’re getting into deeper waters and I’ve seen good lives ruined by those who thought they could handle it only to get dragged down deeper into a matrix of un-welded vertices. You’ll be in good company though.
Hi,
Thanks for the comments.
It for me is a good test bed to try to make different parts.
I am trying to make bends in hand rails at the moment.
Ian thanks for you input.So much to learn.
I have been thinking about how to model the internal frame work as you have suggested.
Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 12:50 pm Posts: 738 Location: Brisbane
How to make bends in handrails.
First draw a picture of the handrails.
Now divide the angles into segments with a spare segment for each straight. this will alow you to get an idea of how many sections you will need.
I usually make the transition to a right angle out of 2 segments.
Now create a tube you only need 3 points/sections with as many segments as you need, poly smoothing will make it look smooth.
Press F8 to go into point mode.
See the dots.
Now select the appropriate window (If the curve is at the front or rear curving left or right) select the end on window.
Now go up to select points, thats the dotted box next to the ruler in the tool bar at the top.
Leave a segment for the straight part.
select all points above the second set of points.
Now select the rotate button. Now rotate the selected points in the direction of the curve a bit,
now select move. constrain unwanted directions and move the points to align.
Now select above the 3rd points click the rotate button. Now rotate the selected points in the direction of the curve a bit more.
now select move again. constrain unwanted directions and move the points to align.
Now select above the 4th points click the rotate button. Now rotate the selected points in the direction of the curve to horizontal.
now select move again. constrain unwanted directions and move the points to align.
Keep on going until you have completed the curved part.
after you have finished your shape dont forget to center its origin to part and apply poly smoothing in parts properties.
This is probably as clear as mud but its easy once you have worked this out.
I have found it easier to use a 4 sided tube that is much bigger than what is required to make it easier to manipulate the points. This is a 2ft radius tube with the grid spacing set to 1ft.
Move the points so that they line up with the grid to get the bends uniform. Once the shape is correct, scale it down to the required size.
Russ, did you know you can move the part axis while in part mode by holding the shift key and left click + drag mouse?
Russell,
A while back when looking at one of your steam locos in shape viewer I noticed the pipes were three sided.
I could not make a tree sided tube till now.
David thanks for your encouragement.
Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 12:50 pm Posts: 738 Location: Brisbane
Hi Geoff I find a 3 sided (Faces) pipe as long as it is small helps cut down the polys and after smoothing you cant really notice.
For larger diameter pipes use more sides.
I use 22 sides for boiler and wheels.
The more sections (not sides) you add to Curved pipes on the curved part the better it looks.
Less sections on the angular curved bits results in a more chunky appearance.
Hi,
I have made some changes.
I have taken the "gas axe" to the floor of the beast.
Does look better although not correct.
Hope you approve of my weathering textures.
.
I have rescaled it for the VM guage.
Here it is on the Portuguese Lena route .
Have to get back to trying making some nice hand rail bends.
Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 8:49 am Posts: 180 Location: Junee NSW
Very nice, Geoff.
One thing I would suggest is to lighten off the tank textures a little. What 'should' be back rarely looks fully black in the sim. As the tank is round, using a gradient tool can be used to give a shaded texture in mid to dark grey.
Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 12:50 pm Posts: 738 Location: Brisbane
Puts detail Nazi hat on!
The straps that hold the tank to the frame are 1/4 inch thick by 3 inches wide. there are usually 2 side by side.
The saddle will be about 9 inches to a foot in depth.
Sorry about the imperial measurements.
Takes hat off!
Good work the more you do the easier it gets.
Here is a picture of a VR tank that would be at home anywhere in AU.
I took it with the intention of turning it into a skin.
You could cut it into pieces and clone brush the walkway out and use it as the basis for a weathered tank.
Making the strap. First create a 22 faces tube to the size of the tank, This is the tank.
Then create another similar tube with the same amount of faces but make it the width (Depth wise) of the strap now expand it in the X and Y axis just a little.
It is easier to do both the tank and the strap at the same time.
Go into point mode.
Now delete the points one section down from the two vertical faces from the bottom.
select the 2 lower points and move them in the Y direction to nearly the level of the deck.
Copy this part. On the copied part go into point mode and select all points above the two vertical faces delete these.
You will have two legs hanging down.
Go into poly mode F7 and press F to flip the poly do this until all the polys on the copied part are pointing in. (This is the inside of the strap)
Select this part and the original Strap join with the J key.
Texture and you have got a simple strap.
Dont forget to apply poly smoothing.
It was the tankers in the QR Rolling stock plans that got me interested in trying to model a tanker.
So my next request was going to be has anyone got some good pictures of any of those tankers?
The straps obviously needed fixing, thanks Russell for those instructions and the picture.
Arg706 the route is Russell's Southern Main.
It is the area around the Rock,the rather uncluttered southern part of the route.
Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 8:38 am Posts: 173 Location: Sunny Brisbane
Geoff, just a couple of other things to help you improve your models:
Notwithstanding what Russ's VR tank photo shows, most early (as in pre-frameless designs built before the 70's) tank designs with securing straps around the tank, had the 'work platform' much lower down - it sat separately on both sides, at least 1 to 1+1/2 feet below the crown of the tank, certainly not wrapped around the filling dome - also note the platform had diagonal supports underneath that supported the outer edges of the platform, and braced it back to the tank shell.
Also the cross-beams which sit directly under the straps were taller, so they formed a shaped 'cradle' for the tanks to sit in, rather than the tank sitting on a flat beam (which could cause the tank to roll off to the side if the retaining straps broke).
I presume you have downloaded my recent NSW private owner tank pack - to see how I made them, open any tank (1-dome, 2-dome or 3-dome) in SFV, then press the Shift+Backspace key - this will render the model in 3-d wire-frame mode, and then you can see how the polys make up each part.
Note also that some tanks had handrails standing proud above the platform, some didn't - if you can get hold of a copy of the book "Railway Freight Wagons in NSW - 1982', by John Beckhaus, ARHS, 1982, there are about 15 or so good photos of tank wagons, from early through to later frameless designs, on which to base models.
Hi Brian,
Thanks again for your suggestions and the pic links.
I did not know that you could see the wire frame in Shape Viewer,great.
I had decided the other day to make the UnderFrame similar to the Russian Tank shown below.
I thought it would be relatively easy to do.
There is another Russian one that I would like to try but is more complicated.
I will have a look at yours now I can see the wire frame view.
.
.
This is my attempt and I am fairly happy with it.
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